Meadow Dance Blog Hop: Day 4

Get ready for more Meadow Dance inspiration! We've seen what Amanda Murphy has created with her new fabrics (click here if you missed it), and now it's time for some more fun! This week we'll be featuring four different projects using the gorgeous Meadow Dance florals and coordinates. Enjoy the tutorials, and make sure to enter to win a fat quarter bundle!

Today Chris from made by ChrissieD is here with a pillow made from Meadow Dance (watch for the coordinating table runner next week!). There's so much color variety in the Meadow Dance fabrics--this pillow has a totally different feel than the other projects we've seen, just because of the palette chosen. Follow Chris' tutorial and then head over to her blog to enter for a chance to win a fat quarter bundle of Meadow Dance. 

Hi, I'm Chris Dodsley of made by ChrissieD, a sewing teacher blogging about my textile crafts and travel adventures.  I love to share my tips, tutorials and projects on my made by ChrissieD blog, in my newsletter and various social media sites including Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, Twitter and Flickr.

It's the final day of the Meadow Dance Blog Hop and what a great collection we're sharing.

Meadow Dance by Amanda Murphy has 28 fabrics and a learning panel designed for long arm quilting too.  With focal prints and smaller florals and textures in plum, turquoise, green, grey, white, red, aqua, orange, coral and yellow ... my own favourite is the crochet lace, absolutely stunning ... and they're all 100% cotton.

I have a couple of projects to share with you that I've made using some of the fabrics from Amanda's latest collection.

My first project is the Meadow Dance Pillow Cushion. I'm sharing the tute for the cushion front today, here on the Benartex Sew in Love {with Fabric} blog while the tute for the cushion back is already available over on my blog, so you have all the instructions you need to make one too.

My second project is the Meadow Dance Table Runner (approx 48" x 13"). The tute for this project will be available on my blog early next week, so be sure to visit again!

Meadow Dance Pillow Cushion

fits an 18" pillow insert

Supplies Needed To Make the Pillow Front:
All fabric sizes are width x height and Benartex fabric codes are in italics.

Note: Additional supplies will be needed to make the cushion back and complete the cushion cover.

HSTs

(12) 3" squares of Floral Blender White on White 4044-09

(2) 3" squares and (2) 2-1/2" squares of each of  the following 6 fabrics from the Meadow Dance  collection (totalling 24 squares)

Garden Path Red 4041-10

Crochet Lace Aqua 4043-05

Floral Blender Turquoise 4044-84

Little Flowers Grey 4045-11

Diamonds Aqua 4046-05

Diamonds Green 4046-44

Inner Border

(2) 12-1/2" x 2-1/4" and (2) 16" x 2-1/4"

of Crochet Lace Grey 4043-11 

Outer Border

(2) 16" x 1-1/2" and (2) 18" x 1-1/2"

of Garden Path Grey 4041-11

Batting + Lining

Batting (1) 18" square

White muslin or cotton lining (1) 18" square

Creating The HST Centre

 Pair each of the (12) 3" Meadow Dance prints with the (12) 3" Floral Blender White on White squares and create 24 HSTs using the HST method I detail in this tute on my blog.

TIP: If you make the Meadow Dance Table Runner (tute available next week on my blog) you can use the left-over 24 bonus/no-waste HSTs to make the centre of this pillow front - that's what I did.

Trim the 24 HST squares down to 2-1/2". 

Place the diagonal line on your ruler along the diagonal seam of your squares to ensure your squares are square.

 

TIP: Using 3" squares to make the HSTs allows you plenty wiggle room for trimming, if you're super comfortable with making HSTs you can actually get away with using 2-7/8" squares to make a 2-1/2" (unfinished)/2" (finished) HST .

Lay out the HSTs in 6 rows of 4, as shown below.

Sew the HSTs into rows using a scant 1/4" seam allowance.

Place a 2-1/2" print square at each end of its matching HST row.

Sew each 2-1/2" square in place and then sew the rows together always using a 1/4" seam.

Trim HST centre to a 12-1/2" square.

Take care to leave a 1/4" fabric visible above the top of your top row white triangles when trimming.  Better to lose the base from the bottom triangles than the points from the top triangles, ask me how I know! 

Adding the Inner Border

Add the two shorter length inner borders to the sides of the HST centre.

Add the two longer length inner borders to the top and bottom of the HST centre.

Adding the Outer Border

Add the two shorter length outer borders to the sides of the centre section.

Add the two longer length outer borders to the top and bottom of the HST centre.

Quilting The Pillow Front

Using spray baste or pins, sandwich the batting between the pillow front and the lining fabric.

Quilt as desired - in the pics below you can see how I've quilted my pillow, 1/8" from the ditch.

You now have a finished 18" pillow front.  

   

Making The Pillow Back

Below you can see both the finished pillow front and the finished pillow back.  For the pillow back I've used the following fabrics from Amanda's collection.

Floral Blender Turquoise 4044-84

Diamonds Red 4046-10

Wildflowers Grey/Multi 4040-11

And take a peek at the hidden zipper in my pillow back.

Don't let that zipper make you nervous!  I'll walk you through how to do it, just click below to head over to my blog where there's a step-by-step hidden zipper tute.

Meadow Dance Pillow Cushion

I hope you've enjoyed my day on the Meadow Dance Blog Hop and want to make your own Meadow Dance projects.  Head over now to my made by ChrissieD blog for a chance to win a Fat Quarter bundle of Meadow Dance fabric and, of course, I'll be sharing all the tutes and tips you need to make the full cushion cover.  Don't forget that next week I'll be sharing the free tute for the Meadow Dance Table Runner on my blog too.  Looking forward to meeting you there! Chris :D

Follow along on all 4 days of our Meadow Dance Blog Hop!

Tuesday: Alison @Little Bunny Quilts

Wednesday: Benartex blog design team

Thursday: from Sandra @MMM Quilts

Friday: Chris @made by ChrissieD

Click here to see our original Meadow Dance post.

Click here to see the full Meadow Dance collection.

Click here to visit Amanda's website and find her patterns.

Love It? Share It!

Deck the Halls Blog Hop: Day 1

The Christmas countdown has begun! This week we'll be sharing five holiday-themed tutorials to add to that festive feeling. 

Our hop begins with Chris from made by ChrissieD. She fussy cut Amanda Murphy's Sparkle collection to make a Dresden Plate Table Topper. We hope you enjoy her tutorial below (plenty of tips for making this sweet project!). Head over to Chris' blog to find out how you can win a fat quarter bundle of one of our holiday lines--the perfect early holiday gift!)

Here's Chris:
Hi everyone, it's hard to believe we're already five days into December and the Holiday season.  I'm delighted to be back here on the Benartex Sew in Love {with Fabric} blog again and introducing Day 1 of the Benartex Deck The Halls Blog Hop. 

Many of you will already know me, but in case this is our first meeting, I'm Chris Dodsley of made by ChrissieD, a sewing teacher in Manhattan and VP of the NYC Metro Modern Quilters Guild, blogging about my textile crafts and travel adventures.  I love to share my tips, tutorials and projects on my made by ChrissieD blog, twice monthly newsletter and various social media sites including Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter .

Today I'm working with the Sparkle fabric collection by Amanda Murphy of Amanda Murphy Design.  There are 16 fabrics in the collection - snowflakes, wreaths and ornaments as well as small and stripe prints in wonderful colours.  All fabrics in the collection are 100% cotton.

I chose these five prints from the collection to make my Holiday Table Topper

and once I finished it I realised it also makes a great Holiday Wall Hanging.  

Whatever way you decide to use it - here is my tute.

Holiday Table Topper / Wall Hanging Tute

approx 24" square

Materials + Cutting Instructions

Benartex Sparkle colours + codes are in italics.

fabric quantities given allow for 13-1/4" length Dresden Blades to be fussy cut with the narrow end extended until the diagonal sides converge into a point, as I have done, but this isn't essential

(8) red blades - 3/8 yard (wreaths red 10052-10)
(8) turquoise blades - 3/8 yard  (ornaments turq 10053-84)
(4) white blades - 3/8 yard (snowflakes white/multi 10051-09)
(1) 25" x 25" quilt top - 3/4 yard (dot geo white/turq 10055-84)
(1) 25" x 25" quilt back - I've pieced together left-over sections of the other fabrics
(1) 25" x 25" Insul-Bright OR batting
(1) 106" length of your choice width of binding -  approx 1/4 yard (ornaments red 10053-10)

Your choice of thread for machine sewing and hand quilting
spray baste or basting pins

You'll also need a Dresden Blade template.
This Dresden plate has 20 blades so you'll need an 18 degree template (20 x 18 degrees=360degrees) that is long enough to cut a blade at 10-7/8"
- or you can extend the lines of a shorter blade yourself with a ruler.
You can purchase an acrylic template or you can draw your own using the instructions over on my blog.

Let's start by taking a look at how I've cut my blades. You'll see I've not left the blades blunt at the end as is normal with a Dresden Plate, instead, I've continued them to a point and the vertical length is 13-1/4".  If you want to leave your ends blunt then your vertical length will be 10-7/8".

On the left you'll see I've fussy cut the wreaths so they're centred down the blade and on the right you can see how I've extended the narrow end of the blade to a point - I've left the original blade end line visible through the blue snowflake so you can see what I mean

For the red and turquoise blades, I cut down the length of the fabric to achieve the pattern direction I wanted rather than across the fabric width.  Fabric quantities given allow for you to cut in this manner also though cutting across the fabric width will use far less fabric and is the better way to cut your pieces if you're using a non-directional print.

Piecing Instructions

Lay out Dresden blades as shown below.

Now work through the 7-stage process shown below to create your finished blade points:

1 - Take one blade and layout as shown;

2 - fold the blade in half down its length and right sides together;

3 - sew a 1/4" seam along the short bottom edge of the folded blade (the red line);

4 - turn your fabric right side out and tease that point right out;

5 - fold the blade in half down its length with wrong sides together to create a centre fold line;

6 - line the sewn blade seam up with the centre fold line and press; and

7 - turn over and press again.

You've made a Dresden Blade!  Continue until you've made 20!!!

Lay your blades back in the circle design shown above and separate slightly into quarter circles - five blades in each quarter

Join each set of five blades following the 5-step process below:

1 - take two blades;

2 - place the two blades right sides together;

3 - using a 1/4" seam sew the 2 blades together starting at the wide end and sewing into the centre - this ensures the outside edge of your Dresden Plate lines up (the purple line).  Double check you're sewing the correct blade edges together to keep the design in order;

4 - Press the seam open on the wrong side; and then

5 press the seam open on the right side.

These five blades form a quarter Dresden Plate.

Trim the long ends from the centre corner of your quarter Dresden Plate to create a perfect right angle.

Create four quarter Dresden Plates. 

Sew the quarters together and to create the halves. 

And finally sew the halves together into the whole.

For this final stage, match the wide ends of the blades and also the centre seam as perfectly as you can.  I used lots of pins to prevent movement.

Press all seams open.

Turn to the right side and press the seams open again - the centre, where all the seams meet will need pressing hard as there is a lot of bulk there.  Open out the seams as best you can and press - it is possible to reduce the bulk quite significantly.  If you left your blades blunt and didn't extend them to points then your centre section will be a hole and there won't be any bulk.  The outside diameter is approximately 23-1/2"

 

This is how the centre of your Dresden will look on the right side and on the wrong side with all the seams pressed open.

Making Your Quilt Sandwich

Lay out your Insul-Bright or batting and lightly spray baste the back of your 25" quilt top.  It's equally possible to baste with pins also just not quite as quick and easy :D

Lay the back of your quilt top down on top of the Insul-Bright.  The Insul-Bright can be any side up.  Don't be put off by the size of my Insul-Bright in the photo below, you can just about see that my fabric is cut smaller and I cut the Insul-Bright down after basting the two layers together.

Spray baste back of Dresden plate

and attach to the Quilt Top placing the wrong side of the Dresden Plate onto the right side of the quilt top, be sure to centre your Dresden Plate.  If you're not happy with your placement you can lift it and reposition, the spray baste is very forgiving. 

 You might want to mark the centre of your quilt top then place a pin through the centre of your Dresden Plate and match the two together.  I used the pattern lines on the quilt top fabric to line up each end of the Dresden Plate.

Sew around edges of the quilt top using 1/8"-1/4" stitch to hold quilt top to Insul-Bright (blue lines).

Quilting

Now we're at the stage where you have to make choices:

1: If your Dresden Plate has a hole in the centre OR if it doesn't have a hole in the centre but you suddenly decide you want to add a turned edge circle to the centre after all (you guessed it, that's exactly what I did when I spotted the perfect snowflake to fussy cut for the middle) then now's the time to add it using your favourite turned edge applique method.  I have a tute showing you how I do it here on my blog.

2: If your Dresden Plate doesn't have a hole in the centre you can move on to hand quilting your blades as I have.  If you'd like some help keeping your hand sewn lines perfectly straight I have a tute here on my blog.  If you want your hand quilted stitches to be visible on the back of your quilt then follow my Hand Quilting Only instructions below OR if you don't want your hand quilting to be visible on the back then follow my Hand and Machine Quilting instructions below.

3:  If you don't fancy hand quilting, you can move straight on to machine quilting your sandwich following my Machine Quilting Only instructions below.

Hand Quilting Only

Before starting to hand quilt your Dresden Plate you'll need to spray baste the back of your Insul-Bright and attach your quilt backing.  Now hand quilt 1/8" inside the edge of each Dresden Blade and the centre circle too, if you've added one.  This will hold everything securely in place.  Any additional quilting is up to you.

Hand and Machine Quilting

Hand quilt 1/8" inside the edge of each Dresden Blade and the centre circle, if you've added one.  When you've completed your hand quilting you'll spray baste the back of your Insul-Bright and attach your quilt backing.  Now machine stitch in the ditch around the edge of each Dresden Blade and around the appliqued centre circle too if you've added one.  This will hold all layers securely in place.  Any additional quilting is up to you.

Basted Quilt Back

Machine Quilting Only

If you are heading straight to machine quilting you'll need to spray baste the back of your Insul-Bright and attach your quilt backing.  Now stitch 1/8" inside the edge of each Dresden Blade and around the appliqued centre circle too if you've added one.  This will hold everything securely in place.  Any additional quilting is up to you.

You can just about see my machine quilted lines on the back of my piece in the photo above.

Finishing Your Quilt

for all quilting methods

When you've finished quilting, machine baste around the edge of the quilt, square up and trim at approx 24".

Now bind the quilt using your preferred method.

I've used double fold 2-1/4" straight grain binding, machine sewn to the quilt top with a 3/8" seam, then handsewn to back.  This means the binding is narrow on the back than on the front.

The Finished Holiday Table Topper / Wall Hanging

 

HOLIDAY TABLE TOPPER / WALL HANGING TUTE

I hope you've enjoyed my day on the Deck The Halls Blog Hop and want to make your own Holiday Table Topper or Wall Hanging!  Head over now to my made by ChrissieD blog for a chance to win a fat quarter bundle of holiday-themed fabric and I'll be sharing more photos of the finished project with you and all those tutes I promised you too.  Looking forward to meeting you there! Chris :D

Make sure to catch all of the tutorials on our Deck The Halls Blog Hop!

Monday 12/5: Chris from made by ChrissieD

Tuesday 12/6: Paula Nadelstern

Wednesday 12/7:  Debby from Debby Kratovil Quilts

Thursday 12/8: Alison from Little Bunny Quilts

Friday 12/9: Benartex blog design team

p.s. Looking for more holiday inspiration? Click here to check out the tutorials featured in our Christmas in July blog hop. 

Love It? Share It!